OZ ATV :: The Australian ATV Forum

[Oldrodder]

I need some help or ideas with the atc 70 I am restoring.

I have been slowly collecting engine bits and pieces and have recently rebuilt the engine but can not get it to run.

The problem I have is that I can not get spark.
I have put in an aftermarket CDI type stator, new coil, new plug but can;t get spark.
I went back to an old style stator and points but still can't get spark, I borrowed another CDI type stator and tried that but still no spark.

What else could it be ?

[HaggLE]

Have you eliminated the kill switch and the spark plug? By elIminated I mean removed or in the spark plugs case, replaced with a known working?
Common issue with the points ignition is the condenser being faulty, easy solution is to go to your car parts bloke and ask for a single wire condenser and hook it into the wiring. Don't worry about disconnecting the old one, doesn't matter. $7 well spent IMO. I assume the points are both opening and closing?

[ButcherBoy]

I didn't think a points engine could run a CDI?

I could be wrong but...yeah
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Yamaha '07 Raptor 700r SE
Honda 1989 TRX 250r
Honda 1985 "70" 125cc
Honda 2012 "70" 200x

[HaggLE]

of course it can... I assume the aftermarket kit replaces the bottom ignition setup and the coil...

[ButcherBoy]

fair enough, that's assuming he's bought an after market kit
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Yamaha '07 Raptor 700r SE
Honda 1989 TRX 250r
Honda 1985 "70" 125cc
Honda 2012 "70" 200x

[dc300r]

It could be a short in the wiring harness because the kill switch works on a closed circuit disconect the kill switch and try your multi meter across the termals in the wiring harness it should read open circuit if it doesn't you have a short in the wiring harness
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go the 300r

[Oldrodder]

No wiring harness or kill switch attached just the engine on the bench, the only thing that hasn't been replaced is the flywheel so I will try and find another one and give that a go.

[dc300r]

Okay sounds like the magnetism on the flywheel might be crook don't know if it would fit but your wecome to try the one on my 74 70 if you want to
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go the 300r

[HaggLE]

are you sure you have the right coil for the points setup? They run a different coil to bikes due to the no battery thing

[stinkitup]

I'm in the same boat at the minute with my 90. So far have replaced coil, condenser and spark plug thanks to atc heaven. I have checked points and adjusted as per manual. My problem was my loom was pretty messed up by the last owner.

I have ditched the head light and switch but not sure If this will still mean it will work. Have hard wired these wires. (Yellow - green) but I think when the emergency is "on" I do have a short so think I am going re-do the harness from scratch.

Anyone around here real cluey with atc wiring? And is there a way to test the AC generator, dad thought it might need the light to create a load for it to work properly, but wouldn't this mean if the light blow's on a ride your stuffed?

Sorry for the hi-jack

Ryan

[HaggLE]

A points circuit is so easy.
You have:
Two wires from the bottom end, black and yellow. Yellow is headlight so ignore it for the ignition.
Points wire
Condenser wire
Coil wire.
Join the four together and you have a points ignition.
If you want a kill switch in there, add one of the wires from the switch to the four mentioned above and the other to earth. In the off position these two join.

Important! Make sure the coil has a good earth to the frame where it bolts on. Condenser needs a good earth too.

As mentioned previously, make sure it's the right type coil, z50 mini bike (old stuff), atc70, atc90 and points model atc110. Cdi coils are different as are points bikes that run a battery.

[stinkitup]

Thanks Haggle

So on my 90 and if I go with a no headlight setup this is what I have.

The black and yellow from the AC Generator, Green from the points.

Then on the new condenser I have a Green double female bullet connector and the new coil just has a single spade condenser, got the coil and condenser from ATC Heaven so should be right.

Am I right to go points green wire to green condensor.

Black from bottom (AC Generator) to coil spade.

Then use the double bullet connector on the condenser to enable a run of black and green via the emergency switch?

Leave the yellow going nowhere or earth it?

Thanks for the help. Hope I haven't Hijacked too bad Oldrodder are 70's similar wiring? found it hard to find decent wiring old posts around the web when removing headlights etc.

Ryan

[HaggLE]

Just connect it all together, your description doesn't say how the condenser connects to the coil terminal.

[ForeverThreeWheels]

I'm redoing my whole harness from scratch on my blue R, this is what I'm using to help me.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/content.php/187-honda-wiring-diagram-section
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[HaggLE]

Ignore the brown tail light wire and the rest is what you need. The black wire that disappears off to the left goes to the kill switch.

[HaggLE]

stinkitup wrote:

Then use the double bullet connector on the condenser to enable a run of black and green via the emergency switch?

No. Just plug the black group into the green female connector as per the pic.

stinkitup wrote:

Leave the yellow going nowhere or earth it?

Tape it up if you arent running a light.

[stinkitup]

THanks mate

righto

Black - to coil, condenser and switch.
Green to condenser and switch

Leave the yellow alone is this right?

sorry just want to get this right.

Ryan

[HaggLE]

The green on the switch goes to earth.
Green from points goes to condensor, black goes to coil, bottom end,and condenser.
Gap your points to 0.5mm at fully open though if you can move the cam up and down (bad cam bush) make it smaller, say 0.3
Align the flywheel to the first F mark and set the points to just open at this point.

[stinkitup]

Thanks Haggle

That's awesome will have a play with it soon. I set the points tomm the other day when checking, didn't notice any play in the cam but will check again.

Then I just need to get the rear axle apart to fix the brakes (they stick) and she is almost ready.

Ryan