OZ ATV :: The Australian ATV Forum

[MadDog_Banshee]

Hi all,

after alot of fruitless results from research, lack of readily available information, and non responsive part retailers, I am a little bit lost.

Can anyone, who's had experience in building Banshee engine's, or rebuilding them, tell me what I need to look for in a Carburetor set up please? I'm about to cough up a 4 digit sum of money to rebuild my bike and while there's lots of packages available for most other things like ported cylinders etc, no one can tell me anything abouts carbs.

What do I need to look for when selecting my carbs ?

To make life easy for you, I'm planning on going with this

http://www.bansheedepot.com/products.asp?cat=23 with the reeds and porting.

My exhaust package I'm planning on buying is this

http://www.dmc-on-line.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=321

I'll also be opting for this filter

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-N-YA-3502-T-YAMAHA-YFZ350-BANSHEE-87-06-Powerlid-Air-Box-Cover-OZKNYA-3502-T-/151182398989?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23332c560d&_uhb=1


I would really appreciate someone telling me in plain English what will work for me please. I am handy with repairs but I don't quite understand carburetors just yet.

I'm not going into drag racing or anything, I just do trail riding. Do I stick with the stock ones with rejet or do I go for different units?

And a quick thank you note to driftingbanshee for the help so far. Much obliged.
_________________
"Back up Bug!"

[driftingbanshee]

MadDog_Banshee wrote:

Hi all, after alot of fruitless results from research, lack of readily available information, and non responsive part retailers, I am a little bit lost. Can anyone, who's had experience in building Banshee engine's, or rebuilding them, tell me what I need to look for in a Carburetor set up please? I'm about to cough up a 4 digit sum of money to rebuild my bike and while there's lots of packages available for most other things like ported cylinders etc, no one can tell me anything abouts carbs. What do I need to look for when selecting my carbs ? To make life easy for you, I'm planning on going with this http://www.bansheedepot.com/products.asp?cat=23 with the reeds and porting. My exhaust package I'm planning on buying is this http://www.dmc-on-line.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=321 I'll also be opting for this filter http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-N-YA-3502-T-YAMAHA-YFZ350-BANSHEE-87-06-Powerlid-Air-Box-Cover-OZKNYA-3502-T-/151182398989?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23332c560d&_uhb=1 I would really appreciate someone telling me in plain English what will work for me please. I am handy with repairs but I don't quite understand carburetors just yet. I'm not going into drag racing or anything, I just do trail riding. Do I stick with the stock ones with rejet or do I go for different units? And a quick thank you note to driftingbanshee for the help so far. Much obliged.

let me help here

Carbs - are quite simple and all you need to do is work out what you want from your bike. For your build id say around the 33 - 35mm size carbs will be ample. alot of people on similar setups are running 28mm here with no issues. Quite a few people in the states are also running the standard 26mm mikunis and making 70hp. Worry about this later

Engine - the engine you have listed is a CUB. This is more suited to drag racing and not trail. Keep looking as this will not really suit your needs. You want to be chasing a serval engine with porting to match your needs. I have advised you to chat to redline racing in the states about this already

Zaust - not a bad choice here at all. Another few good trail pipes are pro circuit, FMF series. If you want more poke upto and a far better rev range go CPI's as most of these pipes give you a good low/mid but you loose alot of top side

Filter - dont waste your time with a power lid!! End of story. Save your time and run a k&N or pro design kit like this.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1151/5794/Pro-Design-Pro-Flow-Uni-Intake-System?term=banshee%20pro%20designs%20filter

however if you are going bigger carbs its best to get rid of the airbox and run a decent set of pod filters. Id personally go foam over the K&N paper for better filtration.

Jetting - As for this ofcourse you will need to rejet but this will be depending on what carbs you are running and the final build. Worry about this once the motor is built and you have chosen the carbs you want to run. Your builder can set these up for you and tune the bike once you are sorted

hopefully this helps a little more

[MadDog_Banshee]

The type of riding I do usually gets muddy. How do the filters hold up without an airbox ? What would the result be if I left the airbox on?
_________________
"Back up Bug!"

[driftingbanshee]

run a foam dual stage filter and will be fine. If you are hitting water check the depth and go slow through it. keep the water depth below the carbs obviously.

Other than that mud wont hurt it. This has been proven time and time again. In the end if you want bigger carbs then you cant run the air box anyway

[1sick6]

That 421 cub kit will be sweet, I use the same thing in my circuit bike. TDR will be able to seek you the carbys you need .
I would go 35mm keihin air strikers or 39mm keihins, (I'm using them on my cub)

I would also get CPI pipes all the others (fmf, DMC, pro circuit) are all to small for a cub, they will just be holding it back.

As for the air box, it is better to run 2 k&n filters with outer wears but if you are running in wet muddy trails they won't be any good, I've hit a few puddles during an Mx meeting and my bike copped a heap of water through the carbs.

TDR will be able to supply a rubber adaptor that will join the 35mm carbys to the stock air box.

And you wouldn't be wasting money if you bought a power lid if you ride in real dusty conditions. On my finke Shee I use a power lid along with a k&n filter.
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He Who Dies With The Most Toys, Wins

[BARN-6]

with the filters run velocity tubes up under the seat and put the filters on the end to get your mounting point higher